Getting Ready For Your Doxie Puppy
Here are a few items you will need for the new puppy:
1. Food and Water Bowls
2. Collar or Harness and a Leash
4. Brush or Comb
5. Nail Clippers
7. Crate or Kennel
8. High Quality Puppy Food
10. Stain Remover or Enzymatic Cleaner for Accidents
11. Liquid Benadryl ( for vaccine reactions or any other allergic reaction )
12. Dog Bed
13. Puppy Obedience Class
Some Starting Advice:
1. FOOD…. We highly recommend a high-quality food just for puppies. Your puppy is now eating Victor Select Nutra Pro Active Dog & Puppy Formula Dry Food. There are many quality puppy food brands. You can choose the one that is right for you with your veterinarian, but it is important to feed a food labeled for puppies and one that includes grains.
When switching formulations, the two foods should be mixed gradually over the course of several days to avoid stomach upset.
Your puppy needs to eat 2 to 3 times a day, starting at 1/8 to 1/4 cup per feeding and increasing as they grow. An adult Dachshund will likely need a total 2/3 to 1 cup per day depending on exercise and quality of food. At a year old, your puppy should be transitioned to an adult food. One of the most important things that you can do for your adult Dachshund's health is to keep them lean. Being overweight can significantly predispose them to back pain.
Water should be available at all times unless you find this to be a problem with potty training. In that case, offer water with meals and 2 hours before bed until training is under control.
2. BATHING... Your puppy can be bathed as often as you feel necessary, keeping in mind that over bathing can disrupt the natural oils in the skin. I use for the babies an oatmeal pet shampoo. We recommend talking to your groomer or vet about a good shampoo to use.
It is a good idea to practice handling your puppy's feet and toes, to make certain that your puppy is not alarmed by future nail trims. For those of you using a groomer, puppies should start early, this gives them a chance to adapt to the idea and forge a relationship with the groomer.
3. TOYS... Your puppy will need an assortment of toys with which to play and chew! We do not recommend the rag or braided toys that are sold. There have been reports of intestinal distress in some dogs. We do recommend squeaky toys and hard rubber toys (like the Kong brand toys). Your puppy will need a “toy box” or a place where he or she knows where to find them. Toys are used for entertainment, teething and training. Whenever your puppy is chewing or biting something he or she is not supposed to, a sharp "no" is given, and you replace the object or person with a toy. A puppy should never be allowed to bite or chew on hands or clothing! This will only lead to discipline problems in the future and children in the home may develop a dislike for the puppy.
Puppies naturally play rough with one another from a very young age and so may continue this with a child in the home. Teach children that when the puppy is excited and too rough, to seek higher ground (like the couch.) Children should also use dog toys to play with the puppy rather than their hands or clothing. We encourage children old enough to be involved in training the puppy, as this distinguishes the child from a puppy in the dog's mind and both parties develop good habits.
4. VACCINATIONS... Your puppy has had its first set of vaccines. We have included in the take home packet, a suggested schedule of vaccines. We are strong proponents of vaccinations and the use of flea, tick and heartworm control. Here at Daisy-Hill we use Bravecto, which is given orally or topically on the skin and protects against fleas and ticks. We also use Interceptor Plus monthly, which protects against Heartworms, roundworms, hookworms, whipworms and tapeworms. Heartworm and Lyme disease can be prevented! If not vaccinated and given preventatives, your puppy/dog may suffer lifelong health issues or even death. Prevention is also always less expensive than treatment. Please ask your vet to help you find appropriate preventives based on your location and lifestyle.
5. WORMING... Your puppy was dewormed roughly every 2 weeks until 8 weeks of age. Even though all of our adult dogs are wormed monthly, mothers may have dormant roundworm parasites that are released during pregnancy or nursing and pass them onto their puppies.
Loose Stools.....May be brought on by many different things, but STRESS starts the process
Stress, changing homes and leaving family behind
Changing food without mixing old and new for a week or so
Coccidiosis, a parasite that resides in a dogs intestine. Stress may cause a flare of Coccidia infection, easily treatable
Giardia, intestinal infection caused by a parasite. This parasite is found in many animals and veterinary research suggests that many puppies and well cared for dogs carry Giardia, often without demonstrating symptoms.
6. COLLARS & LEASHES & TAGS... We recommend Lupine products from New Hampshire. Not only are they gorgeous but you can also buy matching ID tag, made by Dog Tag Art. Both companies offer a lifetime guarantee, even if the collar gets chewed. We can personally say that they stand behind their word one or two of our dogs have tried to put them out of business!
We also STRONGLY recommend that in the first 4 months of your puppies life (until fully immunized) to avoid public parks and rest areas, anywhere your puppy may come into contact with other dogs feces. This is the primary way for your puppy to contract worms, parasites, illnesses or even life threatening Parvovirus.
We recommend crate or kennel training.
The goal of kennel training is that a dog will willingly go into the crate or any other enclosure (e.g. cage at the veterinary office) for any reasonable period of time. A properly kennel trained dog will perceive the crate as his "den" or "bedroom".
Crate training is an excellent thing to do for any dog. Since dogs are den animals by instinct, it creates a "Safe Place" for the dog. The crate should NEVER used as a punishment, and should be introduced to the dog as young as possible.
We use crate training for assistance in potty training as well as keeping the house from being chewed to pieces when the puppy cannot be supervised after lights out. If this is going to be the principal place where the puppy is going to reside because of work schedules, kid schedules or pure laziness, DO NOT GET A PUPPY! There are other dog options if you and your family's lives are so hectic, that a puppy needs to spend the majority of its life in a crate. That is not what crate training is intended for, it is a training tool, not a babysitter.
When purchasing a crate, choose one just large enough for the dog to stand, turn around and lie down, at his adult size. You can modify the crate for the use of the puppy by stuffing an old pillow in the back end and a towel on the bottom, both items should be able to be washed. You want the puppy to only have enough room to turn around and lie down, if not he or she will sleep in one end of the crate and potty in the other end.
Again, I use crate training for night time potty training as well as periodically during the day, to run a few errands or have a much-needed nap! Always potty your puppy before crating. You may crate train by placing the crate on the night stand, pulling it up to the side of the bed so the puppy is as close to as possible. Just like a baby, puppies want to be reassured of your presence. Once in at bedtime, of course you have given a small treat and non-squeaking toy (learned this the hard way) your puppy is going to fuss. In a soothing voice, tell the puppy night-night. The fussing may go on for a while the first night but eventually the little love bug will drift off. In the first few weeks, your puppy more than likely will need to go out once a night. When you hear the whining, take your puppy out to potty, say good job and right back in the crate. Do not turn on all the lights and throw a parade as you will now be up for the day! This all ends very quickly, and your puppy will be sleeping through the night in no time. If you get an accident in the crate, it is your fault. Dogs are very clean and do not mess in their living space. Do not reprimand the puppy, simply clean it up. After a few weeks, move the crate to the floor in the bedroom. During the day, especially when your puppy is very young, put the crate in the room where he or she is for the day and leave the door open. Many dogs will view the crate as their bedroom and retire there when they need rest or seclusion. Once your puppy is potty trained, you then may want to make the decision to leave the door open at night and spoon a Dachshund! Enjoy!