Here are a few items you will need for the New Puppy:
Food and Water Bowls
Collar & Harness
Crate or Kennel
High Quality Puppy Food
Stain Remover for Accidents
Liquid Benadryl (for vaccine reactions or any other allergic reaction).
Puppy Obedience Class
1. FOOD…. We highly recommend a high-quality food just for puppies. Your puppy is now eating Orijen Amazing Grains Dry Puppy Food. I have done my homework and research. By far, Orijen’s products come in first (in all categories) across the board when looking for the best Dog and Puppy foods sold. Here my adults eat a 50/50 mixture of Orijen grain free and and grains and I would recommend doing the same with Puppy food, Amazing Grains and Grain Free Puppy. I am only using the one for your baby as to keep it simple for new Moms and Dads. There has been a lot of research and the consensus is that Grain-Free is not good for puppies and dogs and causes heart issues. I don’t agree, with my research, I feel this is all about selling junk dog food. So, I have compromised in the event I am wrong and that’s why there is a mixture. I know it’s a pain, but most studies recommend at least 2 different dog foods be given to your dog as nutrients are different in different brands. This food is pricey but so are veterinary bills as well as the time, energy and the inconvenience of an ailing Dog or Puppy. Orijen also has a very generous frequent buyers’ program when you purchase the food locally. For a list of retailers near you, that carry and sell Orijen go to www.orijenpetfoods.com/en-US/where-to-buy or call 1-877-939-0006. For your online convenience, www.chewy.com.
I also give everyone a heaping tablespoon of Whole Milk Plain Yogurt with the morning meal, this is great for digestion.
At 4 months of age, with the evening meal, I include Longevity and Omega 3-6-9 both products sold by Springtime Supplements, www.springtimeinc.com .These products are superior for overall health and the protection of the hips and joints in your sweet Doxie.
Your puppy needs to eat 2 to 3 times a day, starting at an 1/8 to 1/4 cup per feeding and increases as they grow, keeping in mind an adult Doxie gets a total 3/4 cup to 1 1/4 cups per day depending on exercise and quality of food. A less quality food will be a bigger serving, follow the directions on the bag. At a year old, your puppy should be transitioned to an adult food and again I recommend Orijen Adult food or another high-quality food. Water should be available at all times unless you find this to be a problem with potty training and in that case, offer water with meals and 2 hours before bed until training in under control.
***** If you have decided NOT to feed the same puppy food we do, please let me know and I will send home with your baby a 14-day supply.
A week to ONLY feed (even treating) what I send and then a week of mixed 50/50 with the new puppy food.
If switched too soon your puppy will get diarrhea and then the fun begins! *****
2. TREATS....No TREATS in the FIRST 2 WEEKS HOME!! Use the puppy food kibble. We absolutely want you to treat the baby for all the positive things they do but WE DO NOT WANT TO INTRODUCE ANYTHING NEW INTO THIER BELLY IN THE FIRST 2 WEEKS AT HOME. Doing so will only end badly with diarrhea and possibly vomiting. Once past the 2 week mark, start slowly and see how the new food/treat is tolerated. Also, when feeding a high grade food, I feel a treat doesn't necessarily need to be top shelf, a treat should be a treat!
3. BATHING.... Your puppy can be bathed as often as you feel necessary, keeping in mind that over bathing can disrupt the natural oils in the skin. We recommend a puppy shampoo or no tear baby shampoo work for now. Dachshunds are a "no body odor" dog unlike other breeds and only need bathing when they have gotten into something. Your puppy also is used to having his/her toenails clipped every 2 weeks since birth. If schedule continued by you, the likely hood of having a dog that hates having its nails trimmed is reduced dramatically.
4. TOYS…. We LOVE www.barkbox.com, this is a monthly subscription, and your baby gets new toys and treats monthly. Well worth the money!! I have set up the link to go to their SUPER CHEWER products. You’re going to want to pick the weight class for your puppy full grown, Small and Mighty 0-20lbs. I find this is the right size toys, they work perfectly.
Your puppy will need an assortment of toys with which to play and CHEW! We do not recommend the rag or braided toys that are sold. There have been reports of intestinal distress in some dogs. We do recommend nylabones, squeaky toys and hard rubber toys. Your puppy will need a “toy box” or a place where he or she knows where to find them. Toys are used for entertainment, teething and training. Whenever your puppy is chewing or biting something he or she is not supposed to, a sharp NO is given, and you replace the object or person with a toy. A puppy is never allowed to bite or chew on hands or clothing! This will only lead to discipline problems in the future and for those of you with children, a dislike for the puppy. Teach children when the puppy is excited and too rough to seek higher ground (like the couch) and use dog toys to play with the puppy opposed to their hands or clothing.
5. SHOTS…. Your puppy will have had Bordetella at 3 weeks of age and DHPP (Distemper, Adenovirus, Parvovirus and Parainfluenza) at 7- 8 weeks of age. A Health Record will be included in the take home packet. I am strong believer in vaccinations and the use of flea, tick and heartworm control. Here at Daisy-Hill we use Credelio or Bravecto, these products protect against, fleas and ticks. We also use Interceptor Plus monthly, protects against heartworms, roundworms, hookworms and tapeworms. Heartworm and Lyme disease can be Prevented!! If not vaccinated and given preventatives, your puppy/dog may suffer lifelong health issues or even death not to mention the cost of an ailing animal. We insure our Homes and Cars as well as other items we care for WHY NOT take every precaution with your new family member, that is dependent on you? VACCINATE!!!
6. WORMING…. Your puppy was wormed with Pyrantel at 2 and 6 weeks of age. Panacur at 4 and 8 weeks of age. Even though all my dogs are wormed monthly, Mothers may not “have” worms or parasites but “carry” certain worms and parasites and pass them on when they have their babies.
Loose Stools…. May be brought on by many different things, but STRESS starts the process
Stress, changing homes and leaving family behind
Changing food too quickly
Coccidiosis, a parasite that resides in a dog’s intestine. Stress may cause a flare and treated by Albon
Giardia, this parasite is found in many animals and Veterinary research suggests that 50% of all puppies and well cared for dogs carry giardia. Treated with Metronidazole or Panacur.
Honestly, this is the most frustrating part of breeding. All the cleaning, bleaching, preventatives and TLC doesn’t prevent some of these parasites from showing up when a dog or puppy is under stress after he or she has left here. This is why I highly recommend taking a stool sample to your first puppy visit and have it tested. better to be proactive
We also STRONGLY recommend in the first 4 months of your puppy’s life and/or until fully immunized, to avoid public parks, unvaccinated animals and rest areas-anywhere your puppy may encounter other dog feces. This is the primary way for your puppy to contract worms/parasites or even a life-threatening disease called Parvovirus.
7. COLLARS & LEASHES & HARNESSES.... We strongly recommend Lupine products from New Hampshire, www.lupinepet.com for your Collar and Leash needs. Not only are they gorgeous but you can also buy matching ID tag! Love it! ALSO...they have a lifetime guarantee, even if the collar gets chewed! I can personally say they stand behind their word, my Molly has almost put them out of business...LOL! Can't say enough, AWESOME product!
For Harnesses, we have 2 favorites that fit Doxies quite nicely. RUFFWEAR can be found here, https://ruffwear.com/products/front-range-everyday-dog-harness and VOYAGER can be found here, https://www.chewy.com/best-pet-supplies-voyager-step-in-air/dp/362793.
I like a collar on a dog with tag. Dog gets off the property and hopefully the person finding the dog, reads the tag and doggy goes home instead of the shelter where they read the microchip. No one wants their dog at the shelter for any length of time. But I like a harness for walking as pulling can and does do thyroid damage. I recommend the both worn together, Collar with Tag and Harness for walking and of course, we have the microchip as an AWESOME back up plan!
We Recommend Crate or Kennel Training
The goal of kennel training is that a dog goes willingly into the crate or any other enclosure (e.g., cage at the veterinary office) for any reasonable period of time. A properly kennel trained dog will perceive the crate as his "den" or "bedroom".
Crate training is an excellent thing to do for any dog. Since dogs are den animals by instinct, it creates a "Safe Place" for the dog. The crate should NEVER be used as a punishment and should be introduced to the dog as young as possible.
I use crate training for assistance in potty training as well as keeping the house from being chewed to pieces when the puppy cannot be supervised. If this is going to be the principal place where the puppy is going to reside because of work schedules, kid schedules or pure laziness, DO NOT GET A PUPPY! There are other dog options if you and your family’s lives are so hectic, that a puppy needs to spend the majority of its life in a crate. That is not what crate training is intended for, it is a training tool, not a home or constant babysitter.
When purchasing a crate, choose one just large enough for the dog to stand, turn around and lie down, as an Adult (we use 28-31"). You can modify the crate for the use of the puppy by stuffing an old pillow in the back end and a towel on the bottom, both items should be able to be washed. You want the puppy to only have enough room to turn around and lie down, if not he or she will sleep in one end of the crate and potty in the other end. I do not like the wire kennels as the dog will feel exposed and you will cover with a towel or blanket and the dog will pull it through and chew and eat it. I prefer the plastic and they are much easier to keep clean.
Again, I use crate training for nighttime potty training as well as periodically during the day, to run a few errands or have a much-needed nap! Always potty your puppy before crating. I crate train, by placing the crate on my nightstand, pulling it up to the side of the bed so the puppy is as close to me as possible. Just like a baby, puppies want to be reassured of your presence. Once in at bedtime, of course you have given a small treat and NON SQEAKING TOY (learned this the hard way) your puppy is going to fuss. In a soothing voice, tell the puppy night-night. The fussing may go on for a while the first night but eventually the little love bug will drift off. In the first few weeks, your puppy more than likely will need to go out once a night. When you are here the whining, take your puppy out to potty, say good job and right back in the crate. DO NOT turn on all the lights and throw a parade as you will now be up for the day! I don’t treat for pottying at night either or this will now be a learned behavior. Just a low voice good dog will be enough. This all ends very quickly, and your puppy will be sleeping through the night in no time. If you get an accident in the crate, it is your fault. Dogs are very clean and do not mess in their living space. Do Not reprimand the puppy, simply clean it up. After a few weeks, I move the crate to the floor in my bedroom. During the day, especially when your puppy is very young, I put the crate in the room where he or she is for the day and leave the door open. Don't panic when you can't find the baby, he or she is in their crate. Once your puppy is potty trained, you then may make the decision to leave the door open at night and Spoon a Doxie, ENJOY